On Public Transportation

Czech people, for the most part, keep to themselves. They are quiet, reserved, and polite. This can best be seen while using the public transportation, which often feels a little bit like a library.

So imagine our surprise when one of us would find ourselves being publicly berated by an angry, elderly Czech woman. This is not a subtle reprimand. They yell. They hiss. They give unabashedly evil stares until either they or you leave the tram. It didn't take us long to realize that there is a custom here that wasn't explained to us until too late. And it has since become my favorite of the Czech culture.

When an elderly person (or someone otherwise visibly infirmed, i.e. one with a cane or crutches) boards the car, human beings of younger and fitter natures are obliged to let them have their seat. This is not out of mere politeness. This is something ingrained in their culture. It's in the blood.

And so now, I find myself hesitant to sit down when riding public transportation. Inevitably, an old lady will board at the next stop, and I'll have to get up. But that's not the hard part. No, it's easy to get up when someone really old boards the tram. The hard part is knowing what to do when someone kind of old boards the tram.

Cause what if they don't consider themselves old? What if they just look old? Will they be offended at my presumptuousness? The last thing I want to do in a foreign country is offend.

It reminds me of the Man Show episode when the Man Show Boy tries to earn a Merit Badge from the Boy Scouts by helping "old ladies" cross the street. Meanwhile, he's pissing off every middle-aged woman who crosses his path.

Thankfully, I've found it's better to err on the side of caution. Most people take it as a kind courtesy, and if they don't need to sit down, they'll thank me and tell me that they're fine with standing. (In Czech. And with body language, of course.)

I like this custom. Often, we'll see an old person waiting at the station before the tram even stops, and we'll get up pre-emptively. When you get up without being asked, they are overwhelmingly effusive, showering on "dékuju" after "dékuju" and often chattering away even after, as you smile back uncomprehendingly. It's even better when they are standing and you get up and tap them on the shoulder and point to your recently-vacated seat. I've never seen someone be more appreciative for such a such a simple, easy gesture.

We're all adapting to the new culture here. Things are different. It's not bad or good. It just is. But one thing is certain, if you make an effort, whole worlds open up. They can know you're American and that you don't speak Czech, and even so, a simple "Dobry den" or "dékuju" can bring a smile. Always.

And so, as I look forward many weeks to when I return to New York, I am excited to bring this custom with me. I will be riding the 6 train to Astor Place. At Spring Street, an old man or woman with many shopping bags and perhaps arm-crutches and also a seeing-eye-dog and a prosthetic knee will board the train. I will get up so this person can sit down. And maybe in the future, others will do the same.